In a year time, the Centre for Research on Multinational Corporations (SOMO) and the India
Committee of the Netherlands (ICN) have published two major reports documenting the
exploitation of Dalit girls in the South Indian garment industry that produces for European and
US markets. See: http://www.indianet.nl/sumangali_e.html.
This update zooms in on on-going abuses in the Tamil Nadu garment industry, as well as on
the debate and actions to tackle the `Sumangali SchemeŽ, that is fuelled by the findings and
recommendations of the SOMO and ICN reports.
In May 2011, SOMO and ICN published `Captured by CottonŽ. This report evoked
considerable company responses and promises for improving the documented labour rights
violations. Almost a year later `Maid in IndiaŽ was issued, in which SOMO and ICN together
with local human rights groups continue to monitor the commitments of brands, trade
associations and CSR initiatives to take concrete action.
Workers in the textile mills and garment factories in Tamil Nadu, South India, suffer
exploitative working conditions. In `Maid in IndiaŽ, SOMO and ICN document that more than
100,000 girls - possibly up to 300,000 - work under employment schemes, often referred to
as Sumangali, that amount to bonded labour. Workers make long hours, including forced
overtime, under unhealthy conditions. Wages in the spinning mills are far below the legal
minimum.
The Update focusses on:
- A few hopeful signs of change in the Tamil Nadu garment industry;
- Increasing number of migrant workers in the industry, including from Bihar and Rajasthan;
- Denial of child labour by Factory Inspector while police raids discover workers under 14;
- Political responses in Europe and the USA;
- Steps taken by garment brands and multi-stakeholder initiatives;
- New reports and the media on 'Sumangali';
- The role of caste and the position of Dalit girls.